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Inspections
Step 2
The Inspection
Basements
General
Observations | Basements
| Home
Systems | Kitchen
and Bath | The
Exterior
It is important to inspect the basement
carefully. All the major mechanical,
plumbing and heating systems in a home
are usually located in the basement.
It is also the only part of a home where
exposed piping, wiring and framing can
almost always be seen. Foundation or
structural problems may also be detected
in the basement, and they typically
affect the entire home.
- Check the basement walls for large
cracks or any noticeable defects.
Also look for signs of movement, particularly
in an older home. Hairline vertical
cracks along the mortar joints and
concrete block are not usually causes
for alarm. A crack that indicates
a serious problem will be at least
1/4inch wide all the way through
to the outside wall. In some cases,
horizontal cracks that are 1/2inch
wide or wider, and have caused the
wall to bow out, stem from pressure
building up behind the wall from the
outside. In order to correct the problem,
this pressure must be relieved. Be
sure to have your professional inspector
check this. If the cracks are very
wide and there's been significant
settlement, the footings or foundation
were probably poured on fill ground.
In this situation, it might be necessary
to underpin. Your professional home
inspector will be able to determine
the extent of and solution to the
damage. Be aware that settlement cracks
in a basement floor slab are not usually
structurally significant, but they
may indicate either the compacting
of fill dirt on which the slab was
poured or the presence of an underground
spring.
- Examine the condition of the mortar
between the bricks or cinder block
when you look at the basement walls.
In many older homes, the original
mortar will have deteriorated and
need pointing up in order for the
wall to maintain structural integrity.
- Check all the wood structural members
in the basement for signs of rot or
termite damage. In most parts of the
country, termites are subterranean
and will almost always be found where
the wood is close to the ground.
- Pay particular attention to the
sill plate around the perimeter of
the exterior walls (the 2x6 or 2x8
that is bolted to the top of the masonry
foundation walls). Termites can also
enter where there is concrete on the
exterior, for example, under a concrete
porch or around a fireplace hearth.
- Look for signs of work done since
the home was built. If additional
support columns were installed, for
example, its important to determine
why it was done. It might mean the
home has a structural defect.
- Inspect the deterioration of materials
and other factors that might affect
the livability of the home. For example,
if the basement is not at least 71/2
feet high, it will probably not be
usable as living space. While some
codes permit a basement recreation
room or bedroom to be as low as 61/2
feet high, 71/2 feet is considered
the minimum for living standards.Be
aware of unfaced stairs, deteriorated
stair treads, leaky doors, and windows
that are frozen open or shut.
- Check for the presence of asbestos.
This can only be verified by an expert,
but can be spotted in heat pipe coverings
in older homes, packing material on
old hot water and steam boilers and
fireproof materials in furnace rooms.
If your professional home inspector
finds it, you may wish to leave it
in place, if it is in good condition,
not friable and not likely to deteriorate.
Or you may want to negotiate the cost
of having it removed or encapsulated.
- Ask the current owner if the home
has been checked for radon; if not,
make the purchase offer contingent
upon a radon test. Radon is an odorless,
colorless gas that may seep into the
house from the soil. Radon is known
to cause cancer. A ventilation system
may take care of a radon problem.
- Hire a termite inspector to check
the crawl space for termite activity
or damage to the home you have selected.
This is usually done after the contract
is ratified but before closing. If
there's no access to the crawl space,
you wont be able to identify termite
activity or possible structural damage.
Water Problems
While the vast majority of basement
water problems can be solved by controlling
roof and surface water, some may require
a more expensive solution because of
local conditions. It pays to know the
difference. One of the problems in owning
a home is moisture in the basement or
crawl space.
Be aware of the particular neighborhoods
or locations in your area with a history
of water problems due to a high water
table, underground springs or other
geographical or topographical factors.
If you're in doubt, check with your
local building or public works department.
- Check the exposed walls for white
efflorescence indicating water building
up behind the wall and for dark spots
indicating additional water pressure.
Pay particular attention to wood paneling
or wallboard for signs of moisture
at the base of the wall or any buckling
in the wall. If the floor tile is
loose, pull it up to look for moisture
underneath. Tile will not stay down
if there's moisture. Standing water
will cause discoloration at the seams.
- Check outoftheway
places and behind items stored against
the walls. Look for stains. Look around
the furnace for rust marks and around
window wells for moisture or signs
of moisture in the past.
- Be aware of new concrete around
the perimeter of the basement slab.
If it's there, that usually means
that the slab has been broken out
and tied into a sump pump with a French
drain installed. This might indicate
a previous water problem. A properly
installed drain tile and sump pump
system will solve the problem. Be
aware that many waterproofing contractors
will sell and install an expensive
French drain and sump pump when all
that you need is better exterior grading
and the right extension of downspouts
from the gutter system.
- Check the grading outside to see
whether gutters and downspouts are
properly aligned and cleaned. Look
for anything else that might indicate
a roof and surface water problem rather
than a high water table.
- If you find a water problem, check
it carefully and have it checked later
by a professional to determine whether
it has been corrected or continues
to be a problem. While most basement
water problems can be corrected by
controlling roof and surface water,
you may want to have your professional
home inspector check this.
Basement Apartments
- Check that the ceiling height is
at least 71/2 feet over 70 percent
of the area. A professional can help
you determine if the recommended 1/2inch
fire code drywall ceiling separates
the apartment from the first floor.
It should be installed directly over
the joists with all steel beams enclosed.
The ceiling cannot be applied over
wood lath. Stairways should be enclosed
with fire code drywall and a Class
B fire door. It's best to have a separate
electric meter and service. You should
consult local building codes and a
professional to determine if the unit
is legal.
- Look for a separate heating system
for the apartment. Codes usually do
not permit circulation of air between
separate living units. If the heating
system is a hot water system, a separate
zone for the basement apartment is
helpful, but not necessary. Check
for a circulating pump on the boiler.
If the heat comes only from exposed
pipes, it will subside when the pipes
are enclosed.
- Make sure the furnace room has outside
ventilation and is enclosed with a
fire wall and fireproof door. Many
codes require that a wall area equal
to oneeighth of the floor area
includes windows or doors for proper
light and ventilation.
Check to be sure the home is zoned
for a twofamily flat and that
there is an occupancy permit.
General
Observations | Basements
| Home
Systems | Kitchen
and Bath | The
Exterior
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